The Journey to  Hemkund Sahib

begins at Govind Ghat, which is 30 miles from Joshimath on the Badrinath road (which can be seen running across the middle of the picture). 

Pilgrims descend to Govind Ghat (which is much larger than I thought it would be, and mainly out of the picture at right), where they cross the Alakananda River and begin their ascent up the other side.  The first few kilometers are a pretty steep uphill climb, and the path is largely shadeless and unprotected.  An early start is highly recommended.

It is really a beautiful place, and it is virtually litter-free, since a local NGO has taken responsibility for collecting and recycling plastic trash.

This is near the end of the first day's journey, about a kilometer before reaching Ghangaria.  The path to Hemkund, of course, leads through the notch in the hills and to the snow peaks lying behind it.

It was a hard day's walk, and we were very tired when we finally reached Ghangaria.  There are lots and lots of hotels and restaurants there (reflecting the needs of a pilgrim clientele), as well as a few basic shops and essential services (medical, shoe repair, etc.). 

From Ghangaria, the path to Hemkund goes up--the distance is only about 4 miles, but the elevation gain is another 4000 feet (up to 14,200).  The grade and the altitude make it a difficult journey--you walk for a while, stop and rest, walk some more, rest some more (we saw people napping on rocks by the side of the path). 

At the same time, one makes the trip as part of a swelling river of people.  Some ride horses or get carried in baskets, but most of them walk, and there's a continual flow of curious questions, encouragement, and snacks. 

During our walk up I missed the marker for the third kilometer, which is in the little village near the center of the picture.  When I saw the sign that we had gone four kilometers, with only two left to go, I knew for sure that I would make it.  Up until then, I could only think about putting one foot in front of the other.

The final ascent to Hemkund can be done either on a set up steps running more or less straight up the hill (shown here) or on path with switchbacks that is longer but a much gentler grade.  Here you can see a line of pilgrims (and porters) who opted for the former, coming down the hill. 

I was feeling tired, so I opted for the latter (which was still a hard climb, just not nearly as steep).