Bairagis: Kumbha Mela

The climax of the Kumbha Mela is the bathing processions on the Kumbh Day, usually April 14.  The traditional bathing order relegates Bairagis behind the Sanyasis, but in 1998 the Bairagis had much larger numbers, in part because they traveled with their lay devoteees.  Here is one of the Bairagi mahants, traveling in state to the bathing place seated on a throne on a jeep, covered by an umbrella (the throne and umbrella are traditional signs of high status, and the jeep an updated version of the horse or elephant.

 

Both the Sanyasi and the Bairagi akharas have their genesis in groups of ascetics who served as mercenary soldiers and traders, in some cases up to the 20th century.  This martial past comes out in the Kumbha Mela processions, which often involve carrying and brandishing weapons.  Here the man in the center is doing a little swordplay with a long and flexible sword, while his companions keep a safe distance.  Several other men can be seen carrying swords, and the man at the right draped in the red cloth is holding a battle-axe.

 

This ascetic shows his prowess in wielding a battle-axe.  Although to foreign observers such displays have the air of play-acting, for the ascetics themselves these processions are about enacting their sovereignty over the area, and reinforcing the identity stemming from their martial past.  Thus, these ceremonial occasions are extremely important to them, and a prudent person will observe them with extreme respect. 

Haridwar, April 1998. 

 

Part of the Kumbha Mela is the special bathing days for various groups.  The Shaiva Akharas start it all off on the festival of Shivaratri in late February, but Vaishnava Akharas have their solo bathing day on Vaishakha Amavasya, the new  moon in the lunar month of Vaishakha (which in 1998 fell on April 26th).   This picture shows an ascetic procession marching to the bathing area (over one of the temporary bridges that are put up for the Kumbha Mela), and being met with a shower of flower petals thrown by their disciples.  This photo is courtesy of my friend Kamalkanth Budhkar, a local resident of Haridwar. 

 
This picture (also courtesy of Kamalkanth Budhkar) shows an ascetic garleanded after his bath.  The general form of his tilak (forehead marking) is the same as that of Balak Das, on the preceding photo page, but this one is much larger, particularly the red-teardrop shaped mark in the middle.  This shows some of the internal variety that one finds here.  The writing on the shawl covering his body says "Victory to Rama."   

 

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Last modified 1 September 2011